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Printing On The Dark Side: Four-Color Or Simulated Process?

By Mandar

Printing a full color image on a dark shirt is one of the hardest jobs a screen printer faces. Regular four-color process uses transparent inks: Cyan (sky blue), Magenta (hot pink), Yellow and Black) which print in various percentages, blending together to form a wide range of colors. While this process works beautifully on a white shirt, the results can be disappointing on dark shirts, requiring a white underbase and multiple passes of colors ending up with a thick ink layer and muddy color. While good four-color process can be done on a dark shirt, to do so takes a great deal of experimentation, time, and tweaking during the print run. But there is another way to achieve similar results much more easily.

Simulated process uses opaque inks and in more than just four colors, often between six and eight (usually White, Red, Yellow, Green, Dark Blue, Light Blue, Gray, and Purple). Simulated process colors are usually printed wet-on-wet, with few flashes (a drying process while the shirt is still on the press). For example, to create a flesh tone simulated process would use a mixture of tan, opaque yellow and possibly white. Since the colors are opaque, the dark background becomes a non-issue (or at least much less of one). And if individual, particular colors are needed (for example a exact shade of red for a business logo) they can be mixed to specification and individually printed.

So why would you want to use four-color process at all? When done correctly and successfully, it is the most accurate version of full color reproduction. And for shops with smaller presses with fewer heads available, the multiple colors required for simulated process may not be possible at all. Also for subtle, nuanced art with slight changes in tone, such as pastels, the bright, solid colors of simulated process do not work well.

While screen printing images on dark shirts may be difficult, the results can be amazing and are worth the time and effort involved regardless of which type of printing you use.


About the Author
 
Mandar is a graphic artist and man-about-town with ExpertShirt.com. Design your own custom t-shirt online at www.expertshirt.com.


More Visual & Performing Arts, Crafts, & Hobbies...

The Painter’s Brush

by Grace Palce

The brush of a painter is an important tool through which the artist wields his power and expresses his emotions. The canvass, the oil, and all the other painting media are important too, but these leave the artist when the work is done.

Only the paint brushes stay, faithful and willing to participate in the making of the next masterpiece.

Painters need two kinds of brushes. One is stiff and the other is soft. A painter usually has a range of sizes for both types of brushes.

The stiff brushes are used for the majority of painting tasks and it comes in three shapes: the round, the flat and the filbert. For all ye art beginners, filbert is a shape that is rounded at the base and tapers to a point at the tip. Stiff brushes are made of hog bristles but there are also synthetic bristles available that can make acceptable results. Naturally, many painters prefer the genuine article.

The soft brushes are used for putting in fine details. Painters agree that the best soft brushes are the ones made of sable. Since sable brushes are expensive, there are substitutes available. But the brush strokes made using these replacements are not as good as the ones made by the sable-made soft brush.

There is also a kind of brush made of either sable or hog hair. It is called a fan-head brush and it is needed to seamlessly blend paint on the canvas.

We have heard of painters not taking a bath during a painting marathon, and there are painters known for having chaotic studios. But many painters like to be organized and the most cared for of their tools are the brushes. Besides, many painters believe, though no scientific data supports this, that used but well cared-for brushes perform better than new ones.

The first rule in caring for paint brushes is to never use them to mix paint. There are painting knives to do this task. Another important thing to remember is to never stand the brushes, especially the soft ones, with the point down in the jar. Those expensive hair or bristles are sensitive and may be bent permanently.

When a painter mentors you to place just the right amount of paint on the brush, he wasn't thinking about saving the paint. He was trying to save the brush. Too much paint on it will clog the ferrules, the part that holds the hair or bristles together. If clogged, you have to clean it and cannot avoid parting the hairs. If done too often, the brush ultimately become useless.

Lastly, brushes should be cleaned as soon as you are done using them. You may use turpentine with soap and water. For soft brushes, these can be dipped in milk and allowed to dry for a couple of days. Remember to keep the tips up.



ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Grace Palce is writing articles for DirectPortrait.com, a very fast and easy photo to painting service. Specializing in baby portraits.

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